We had a great time bike touring Les Îles de la Madeleine (Magdalen Islands) for four days in July 2023. We did it as part of a memorial ride to mark the fifth anniversary of V’s death. We chose the islands for both their scenery and their reputation as a cycling destination. They did not disappoint.

Read on to learn more about:

• accessing the islands by ferry
• the routes we took (including the bus)
• the campgrounds we stayed at
• the food we indulged in
• the things we did other than biking.

If you don’t really care about the details, jump ahead to the summary and slideshow of our pictures.

Accessing the islands by ferry

Les Îles de la Madeleine are part of the province of Quebec, but are most easily accessed by the CTMA ferry from Souris, PEI. We actually biked to the ferry terminal from Wood Islands but more about that on our PEI post.

The trip takes about 5 hours and, as we realized about 2 hours before the 2 pm departure, you have to show up 90 minutes before the crossing. We called to ask if 90 minutes was required for cyclists but got a “do what the email says” response. So we got there at 12:25pm, with five minutes to spare. After checking in at the booth, we were directed to walk our bikes to the dock to be the first to embark.

On the ferry, we were given short ropes to tie our bikes to a rack. We made sure we had everything we needed with us for the crossing because passengers were not allowed to access the lower decks once the boat was moving.

The ferry leaving the islands departs at 8 am which means that you have to show up at 6:30 am. This made for an early morning departure from our campsite at Gros-Cap which was 5 km away from the ferry terminal. We did see some other cyclists arrive around 7:15 am and they were allowed on board but we definitely felt less stressed showing up early. The cyclists were actually from the Magdalen Islands and were departing on a bike trip in PEI.

Because we were the first on board, we managed to grab some lounge chairs on the back deck where we proceeded to soak up the sun while progressing on the crosswords. Live music could be heard from the bar inside and there was a lot of happy French chatter amongst the many Québécois starting their vacations. There was also real poutine and Adrien couldn’t resist. It honestly felt like a mini cruise.

It was a cool and cloudy morning on our way back so we gave up the lounge chairs. We spent most of the trip at the front of the boat close to a power plug so we could recharge our phones. We read, checked out the historical info about the ferry co-operative and enjoyed the bakery treats we had purchased the day before.

One thing to note is that the ferry is about $60/person, plus $20/bike and you have to pay both directions so once taxes were added, it was $175 in each direction. The cost for a car was about $110, so by biking we saved about $70 in each direction. It also allowed us to book at the last minute (the day before) because the reservations sell out for cars in the Spring for the entire summer! We were originally planning to do this trip in late September 2022 and would have likely parked off of Knights Lane – except Hurricane Fiona had other plans for us…

The route we took

Over 6 days (4 full days, plus an evening and a morning) we traveled the entire length of the islands. Google Street View doesn’t exist there as of 2023 so we’ll provide lots of details of where we went and what the roads were like.

Day 1 – Ferry to Fatima (7km)

The ferry arrived in Cap-Aux-Meules around 7 pm. We disembarked before the vehicles and quickly accessed the Sentier du Littoral. We had to walk up the first section because it was steep and we had already biked 49 km that morning. Since it was still daylight we were able to get a glimpse of the red cliffs before taking the most direct route to Fatima and then to Camping Barachois. This meant climbing up Chemin Petitpas where we had a view of Cap-Aux-Meules. Then we continued on Chemin du Grand-Ruisseau then Chemin de l’Hôpital and then left on Chemin du Rivage. The total distance from the ferry to the campground was about 7km.

The roads had no shoulders but there was very little traffic despite the ferry having just arrived. We got to the campsite just before dark, set up our tent and tarp, and then walked to the Fatima Beach and enjoyed a drink at the La Shed Surf Bar.

Day 2 – Day Trip around Île du Cap aux Meules (37 km)

The next day it rained. We were being clipped by a storm that caused pure devastation in Nova Scotia so we didn’t want to venture too far in case the “risk of thunderstorms” turned into real thunderstorms. We started by heading to the Madelon Bakery where we had coffee and chocolatines (chocolate croissants). We also sheltered from the rain on their outdoor covered patio while we watched the locals and tourists come in and out, chatting about the weather and their well-deserved vacations. Adrien made a trip to the tourist bureau while Justine dealt with an upset stomach and researched things to do.

Next, we biked to the aptly named À l’abri de la tempête (Shelter from the storm) which is a microbrewery near L’Étang-du-Nord. This required biking 5 km along Route 199 which has a shoulder but was very busy and had puddles everywhere! Let’s just say it wasn’t fun biking in the pouring rain as cars zipped by trying to get their errands done (presumably). But, once we turned onto Chemin Chiasson, we were able to relax for the last 3 km. We stayed at l’Abri for several hours to dry out, taste the beer and try some local food. We also played crib for an hour while the worst of the rain passed.

When we finally decided to leave, we were greeted by dry skies! It was still overcast but the rain had stopped so we decided to take the long way back to Fatima. Just as we arrived in L’Étang-du-Nord, Adrien realized he had a flat tire from a tiny piece of glass. He patched the tire, but there was a bike rental shop Éco-vélo des Îles just 1.5 km away, so we went and they kindly pumped the tire back up to the appropriate pressure. What luck to be near a bike shop and a bathroom when you get a flat!

Once we got back on the road, we quickly found a trail that was labelled for bikes. It was grassy, but very passable and gave us amazing views of a lighthouse and the red cliffs. From the lighthouse, the trail continued, but was very soggy so we decided to take the road for a bit. We eventually tried to find another trail that was marked on Ride With GPS, but it was definitely not for our city bikes and didn’t offer any views. After 1.5 km of dodging potholes we decided to turn around. We then finished our day by taking Chemin Lapierre back into Fatima. It turned from asphalt to gravel about half way through, but thankfully was easily passable.

So for a “rainy rest day”, we ended up doing 37 km and getting a taste of the scenery of the islands.

Day 3 – Fatima to Grande-Entrée (67 km)

The next day was the big day: a 67 km bike trip from Fatima to Grande-Entrée on the open road along the dunes. It was a Sunday, so the bus wasn’t an option, but thankfully our bodies and bikes held up and we had a great ride.

From Fatima, we took the scenic Chemin des Caps towards Cap-Aux-Meules where it eventually merged with Highway 199. From there we headed across a bridge towards Île du Havre Aux Maisons. We tried to stop at the Fromagerie du Pied-De-Vent to get some cheese, but unfortunately it was closed on Sundays (as are a lot of things on the islands). So we continued on to Île aux Loups where the traffic died off and the scenery became incredible – literally 27 km of sand dunes and ocean views. There weren’t a whole lot of places to stop, but we managed to grab a quick lunch at the start of the dunes after just passing an area under construction. We didn’t stay long because the thick fog had turned to a light rain.

At the north end of the dunes, near Grosse-Île, we were impressed by the salt mine. It is made of giant concrete buildings and metal tunnels that stand out in this well-preserved bay. We then stopped to have a second lunch and ice cream at Cap’n Dauphin’s Fish Shack.

As we left the fish shack, for the first time, we noticed that some signs were written in English and that some locals spoke English. Turns out that Grosse-Île is an English speaking community.

We briefly stopped at La Grand Échouerie (or Old Harry Beach) to check out the view. As we left, we were greeted in French by another cyclist who told us that she worked at the resort La Salicorne. She told us everything that we should do on Grand-Entrée and biked with us for the last 4 km.

Day 4 – Exploring Grand Entrée (22 km)

Day 4 was supposed to be a “rest day” but after breakfast the fog finally lifted and we wanted to explore. First, we biked 4 km to Old Harry beach to go for a swim and watch families show up with more stuff than we brought on our entire trip.

On the way back we stopped at the Sentier Seacow where we learned about the historical walrus hunting in the area. We then enjoyed lunch at the gazebo at La Salicorne before heading to the “end of the road” in Grande-Entrée.

The highlight of the day though was definitely the walk on Île Boudreau. Our legs were tired so climbing the hill was hard but the views were incredible!

From there we headed back to our campsite, finishing the day at 22 km.

Day 5 – Grand Entrée to Havre Aubert (32 km by bike and two buses)

For our last full day on Les Îles-de-la-Madeleine, we wanted to visit Havre-Aubert, the southernmost island of the archipelago, but that was 80 km away and would have involved biking in the heat, into a headwind. So, we decided to take the RÉGÎM bus at least part of the way. It picked us up around 9:30 am and we arrived in downtown Cap-Aux-Meules around 10:30 am.

We then headed to the bakery for some more treats before biking 4 km to our final campsite at Gros-Cap. We set up our tent, packed a lunch and then headed south. We took Chemin du Gros Cap and then Chemin le Pré until we got to Highway 199 which crosses yet another dune – this time with great views of wind surfers and wing surfers. Because it was hot, we stopped after about 10 km at Martinique beach at the first covered picnic table we saw. Unfortunately it was in a parking lot without much of a view.

We then continued the remaining 15 km into Havre Aubert, taking the scenic route up Chemin d’en Haut. As Adrien assumed – the “en Haut” meant it was a climb, but it offered great 360 views. We then arrived at La Grave heritage village, enjoyed an ice cream and then continued to the end of the road (literally) before visiting the Musée de la Mer (Museum of the Sea) to learn about the history of the Magdalen Islands.

To return to the campground, we took the bus. That wasn’t the original plan, but we were tired and it was windy and the timing of the bus was perfect. The bus actually went to the one part of the islands we hadn’t seen – Le Bassin, so when it eventually dropped us off in Cap-Aux-Meules we were very satisfied that we had really seen most of the islands.

So a shorter day than planned but about 32 km in total on the bike and 80 km on the bus!

Day 6 – Gros-Cap to the ferry (6 km)

Our last day on the islands was super short – just a quick 5 km ride from Gros-Cap to the ferry terminal at 6 am, about half of which was on the Sentier du Littoral. The beautiful sunrise as we left was bittersweet.

The RÉGÎM bus

One of the difficulties with bike touring in Atlantic Canada is finding public transportation that will take bikes so we were thrilled to learn that the RÉGÎM bus had routes on the islands and had buses equipped with bike racks. And the trips only cost us $4 each! BUT, they have very limited schedules and the schedules online were not accurate! They only run Monday to Friday and often only have one route through a community per day. The advice we were given, which we took, was to call ahead and make it very clear that you have bikes, because not all buses have racks. The staff will then give you a precise pick up time and location.

We ended up taking the bus twice – both in the same day. First, we traveled from La Salicorne in Grande-Entrée to Cap-Aux-Meules. The nearest bus stop was 100 m away at Dépanneur Chez Maguy, a former gas station and grocery store. We wouldn’t have found it if it hadn’t the little blue bus stop sign. Adrien was also pacing because he thought the bus wouldn’t come, but it arrived only five minutes late. The bus driver was very nice and, during the one hour drive between Grande-Entrée to Cap-aux-Meules, he told us, in French, about his childhood on the islands and his family history. He also told us how vital his bus was for people with mobility issues, whether they were mental or physical disabilities. It was also vital for us on that day to save valuable time!

Our second trip on the bus was from Havre-Aubert to Cap-Aux-Meules. The bus picked us up at the museum and dropped us off near the IGA in Cap-Aux-Meules. The driver was much quieter this time, so we just enjoyed the views of the detour around Le Bassin, which was the one part of the islands we hadn’t covered on our bikes.

Where we stayed

Being the frugal, adventurous people we are, we opted to camp for the entire trip. We stayed five nights in total – two at Camping Barachois in Fatima, two at La Salicorne in Grande-Entrée and one at Gros-Cap near Cap-Aux-Meules. We had pre-booked La Salicorne because it only had one site left when we checked two weeks before our trip, but otherwise, we just booked the night before. And honestly, we could have just shown up at any of these locations without having a reservation – there was lots of availability even in the peak of summer.

Camping Barachois

The campground Barachois is located in Fatima, 7 km away from Cap-aux-Meules. It is “over a hill” from the ferry terminal but it took us less than 30 minutes to get there.

We picked a non serviced campsite in the woods (site 57), hoping to shelter from the wind and the rain.

However, it didn’t shelter us from the mosquitoes. They were so bad that we ended up spending our down time in the communal room.

We also took advantage of the amenities to do our laundry and wash our bikes with a hose.

La Salicorne

La Salicorne is located in Grande-Entrée. It has two dozen serviced sites on a big field overlooking the Grande-Entrée lagoon. We pitched our tent on site 18 and immediately felt small between the giant trailers that had set roots for the summer.

We ate all our meals at a gazebo on the top of the hill by the main building. It offered an incredible view on the Bassin aux Huîtres and the mouth of the Golfe du Saint-Laurent.

La Salicorne offers a full restaurant and many excursions, but we decided to just organize our stay on our own.

There is a boat launch on the Bassin aux Huîtres, where you can rent kayaks during the day. They also had great hammock hangers.

On our second night, we planned to go to bed before sunset to avoid the worst of the mosquitoes. The problem was, Adrien couldn’t find his phone. We retraced our steps only to find it buried in the saddle bag. By that time it was dark and the mosquitos were hungry. We killed at least 20 in the tent and we had both been eaten alive by the bloody bugs.

Gros-Cap

In Gros-Cap we opted for a walk-in site with a wooden platform. Site P8 was the last one on the trail and was relatively private compared to the others that were literally only a few feet off the trail. The trail was rooty so it was hard to bring our bikes in. We ended up locking them in the parking lot and carrying our saddle bags.

Gros-Cap was close to the ferry terminal and offered amazing views. But, it was our least favourite of the campsites. The walk to the bathroom and water tap was long, showers were lukewarm and cost $1 per 5 minutes, and the sites were very close together.

What We Ate

For the most part, we cooked our own food. We stopped at the grocery store every day and grabbed a couple vegetables to have with the pasta, rice, couscous, and quinoa that we brought. There were IGAs in Fatima, Havre-Aux-Maisons and Cap-Aux-Meules. In Grande-Entrée there was only the Épicerie l’Éssentiel (Essential Grocery Store) and it had very limited supplies, but enough to make a small meal. We did treat ourselves to the local cuisine and beverages on a few occasions.

Boulangerie Madelon

The Madelon bakery is located in Cap-Aux-Meules and is a very obvious hotspot with the locals. We had coffee and chocolatines (chocolate croissants) and also restocked on bread, cheese and saucisson (dry sausage). The bread and pastries were good, but honestly, we think we can make better.

La Shed Surf Bar

On the beach near Fatima, there is a small cocktail bar called La Shed Surf Bar that is fancier than we expected. Adrien had a sesame cocktail, which tasted surprisingly good but didn’t shake his belief that sesame belongs in food, not drinks. Justine was more conservative and had a gin cocktail.

À l’abri de la tempête

We arrived at À l’abri de la tempête (Shelter from the storm) soaking wet on a rainy day. So we literally sheltered there for a few hours while sipping some beer and playing crib. We also had lunch – Adrien sampling a plate of various smoked seafood and Justine enjoying a panini with local cheese.

The microbrewery has a nice looking patio that would’ve been great for a sunnier day.

Cap’n Dauphin’s Fish Shack

Next to the wharf in Grosse-Île, we visited a fish shack that had been recommended to us at the tourist bureau. It was busy, but worth the wait. The salty fries and lobster rolls were a treat after 55 km with 15 still to go. They also served ice cream, so it truly was the perfect stop.

Other activities

While we spent most of our time on our bikes, we did make time to enjoy La Grand Échouerie (or Old Harry Beach), hike Île Boudreau and visit Le Musée de la Mer.

La Grand Échouerie (or Old Harry Beach)

We spent a morning at La Grand Échouerie, soaking up the sun and enjoying the waves. The beach has beautiful white sand that squeaks when you walk on it and is bordered to the east by red cliffs. It seemed to be a popular surfing destination but we just played in the waves.

Île Boudreau

Île Boudreau is located near Grande-Entrée and is bordered by Bassin aux Huîtres on one side and the Golfe du Saint-Laurent on the other. It isn’t truly an island because you can walk to it and then across it. It offers really great views of the surrounding bays, cliffs, beaches and seals (or loups de mer as the locals call them). We also overheard that there are mud bathing spots in the area, but we couldn’t find them.

Musée de la Mer

The “Museum of the Sea” is located in Havre-Aubert and is focused on the history of the islands. It has a large navigational chart on the floor and explains the way life used to be for the past hundreds of years. There was also information about the geology of the islands, the discovery and removal of a sperm whale carcass and a metallic art display. It is definitely worth the stop.

Long story short (TL;DR)

Phew, that was a long post. Here is the short version:

• We biked 170 km in 6 days (4 full days, plus an evening and a morning). We took two local buses to help us complete the entire length of the islands.
• The Green Route travels the length of the island and has a nice paved shoulder the entire way, but can be busy with cars, particularly near Cap-Aux-Meules and southward. The northern islands of Grosse-Île and Grande-Entrée were much quieter. Most of the side roads didn’t have shoulders but were quiet enough for us.
• We camped for five nights. Sleeping in a tent was easy, the mosquitoes were not.
• It takes a 5-hour ferry to reach the islands from Souris, PEI. You are officially advised to show up 90 minutes early. We did. The locals didn’t. The ferry is pricey — about $350 for two of us for both directions.
• Local food is delicious but spread out. Enjoy it while you can because it is not always convenient by bike.
• The scenery is incredible — go if you get the chance. July and August are the busy months and a lot of places close in the off-season.

Slideshow

Here are some of the highlights of the trip. The pictures — mostly taken from a bike saddle — do not do the scenery justice. We’ve put them in chronological order so you can get a real feel for the trip.